ATTENTION!!
IMPORTANT INFORMATION |
LAMINATE ACCLIMATION REQUIREMENTS |
It
is a requirement that laminate flooring should be acclimated to
the environment in which it is to be installed. The minimum
acclimation period should be 48
Hours.
All cartons shall be
stacked face down on a smooth level surface in the room in which
it is to be installed. Never acclimate in an environment that
is not climate controlled such as a garage or outdoor screened patio.
Following these recommendations
will provide for a much easier installation of flooring. Please
do not call
or return any materials to Starline Associates
unless the above acclimation procedures have been followed.
Thank you for your
cooperation in regards to this recommendation. We strive to
make installation of our products as friendly as possible.
We will continue to pass along any suggestions we receive as feedback
from our dealers and their installers to achieve this goal. |

Installation
Instructions. (Read completely before starting installation) laminate
panels are easy to install. No gluing is required with simple interlocking
panel system. Ideal for either the professional installer or the home
handyman who wants a great looking installation.
Tools and Accessories
- Foam underlayment
- 6-mil (0.2mm) polyethylene moisture barrier (if necessary)
- Moisture-proof self-adhesive tape
- Trim moldings (if required)
- Level
- Square
- Spacers
- Pencil
- Tape measure
- Electric saw
- Dust mask
- Safety glasses
- Gloves
Preliminary
- It is a requirement that
laminate flooring should be acclimated to the environment in which it
is to be installed. The minimum acclimation period should be 48
Hours.
- Ensure the surface to
be covered with panels is clean, smooth, and level. Uneven areas must
be leveled.
- Do not install over carpets.
Remove carpet along with any residual adhesive material and install
on smooth, firm surface.
Moisture
- Do not install laminate panels in bathrooms,
shower rooms, or other rooms exposed to excessive moisture.
Concrete Surfaces. It is recommended that a moisture barrier be placed
over all concrete floors, even if no moisture emissions are apparent.
Moisture barrier
- To
protect panels against moisture from surfaces where moisture is likely
to occur, a moisture barrier must first be placed over the base surface.
Use 6-mil (0.2mm) polyethylene film. Overlap the edges of the polyethylene
by a minimum of 8 inches and seal the junction with moisture proof self-adhesive
tape. Use on concrete floors and all floors below grade or other areas
where condensation or moisture emissions may occur.
Radiant Heat Floors
- A moisture barrier should be installed
over floors with radiant heat. Before laying the barrier, turn heat
down to 15°C (60°F) one week before. Keep the temperature below
27°C (80°F) at
all times.
Underlayment
- Laminate panels must be installed on top
of underlayment. Use a good quality foam underlayment. Underlayment seams
should not overlap and should be taped with self adhesive tape. If installing
both a moisture barrier and underlayment, place the underlayment on top
of the moisture barrier, or use a reliable combination product if preferred.
Sawing panels
- Wear protective mask, safety glasses and
gloves when sawing panels. Always cut laminate panels with the bottom
side facing down. An electric circular saw or miter saw with a finishing
blade is recommended.
Moldings
- Transition moldings in matching trims can
be used for the following purposes:
- End molding: Use for transition
from laminate panel floor to another type of flooring.
- Quarter round: Use at
base of wall. NOTE: Always
fasten quarter round molding to the wall, never to the floor.
- Reducer: Use in transition
from laminate floor to linoleum or other type of hard surface.
- Stair-nose: Use at the
edge of each step in a staircase.
- T-molding. Use in doorways,
between rooms are adjacent floors, and expansion joints.
Measurements
- Be sure to measure all floor surfaces
with the required expansion gaps. (See Expansion below.) Panel tongues
are 5mm and must be part of the measurement when considering expansion
space. If preferred, you can cut off the tongue facing the expansion
gap on the first row. It is also important to measure the room for squareness.
If walls are not square, it is recommended that you use the longest,
straightest wall as your reference line, and draw perpendiculars lines
from it. TIP: Draw your line at a distance from the wall more than the
width of the laminate panel so it is visible after you position your
first row of panels.
It is recommended that all installed panels be at least 12 inches (30.5
cm) in length. TIP: Measure
the length of a row and cut the first panel of the row according to the
length desired for the last panel of the row.
Direction of panels
- For appearance, panels are normally installed
so the length direction of the panels is the same as the length direction
of the room. This will also reduce the amount of cutting required.
Preparation
- Measure doors for clearance
of installed panels. Cut away doorframe at bottom if necessary.
- Remove baseboards if necessary.
- Surfaces should be clean,
smooth and level. Surfaces with slopes steeper than 12.5 mm/1.62m
(1/2 in./5ft.) must be leveled.
- Measure the perimeter
of the room to determine room squareness, and the required width of
the last row of panels. Allow for expansion gaps along each wall.
- Duravel™ tongue-and-groove
panels are easily installed without glue. Simply attach the tongue on
one panel to the groove side of the other panel and the panels will
lock snugly together. Start with the first panel flat on the floor,
or surface up, and the groove side away from the wall. Insert the tongue
of the second panel partially into the groove on the first, while holding
the second panel at about a 20°angle from the floor. Press the second
panel down flat and the tongue will lock firmly into place. (Reverse
the procedure to release.) Continue in a similar fashion for the remaining
panels. TIP: After you
have locked a few rows in place, you may find it easier to stand on
the installed panels when setting the next row in place.
Expansion
- Because changes in heat and humidity will
cause laminate panels to expand and contract in both length and width,
expansion spaces must be allowed on all sides of the installed floor.
The use of spacers inserted between the panels and perimeter walls is
recommended. The spacers should be removed after the panels are installed
and before moldings are attached to the walls.
For rooms up to 25 feet (7.6 meters) in width and 40 feet (12.2 meters)
in length, allow for expansion between 3/8"and 5/8"(10mm to 16mm) along
each wall.
Expansion joints -
For floors more than 25 feet (7.6 meters) wide or
more than 40 feet (12.2 meters) long, an additional expansion joint must
be inserted. Expansion joints are also required in doorways, and between
adjoining rooms or areas where adjacent flooring is installed. Use a T-molding
to cover the expansion joint.
Install at a room temperature of 65°F (18°C)
Pipes and other obstacles
- When installing a laminate panel around
a pipe or other obstacle, leave the same expansion gap as you would next
to a wall. Measure and precut the affected panel. If there is condensation
from the pipe, cut the panel so there is sufficient space to keep the
panel dry. It is recommended that you treat the exposed edge of the panel
to protect it from pipe condensation. TIP:
Fill the space around a pipe with caulking in order to protect the exposed
(cut) edge of the panel.
Installation
First Row
Measure the row before laying
the first panel. Cut the first panel according to the length required
for the last panel. (See Measurents above.)
Measure for straightness and cut the panels to make sure the inner edge
of the first row panels is square before starting second row.
TIP:
Measure the last row for panel width first. Then cut first row panels
to the same width as last row, recommended not less than 2 inches.
Position the first row panels along one wall, leaving space for expansion
between the panel and the wall.
Lock the ends of the panels together until the first row is finished.
Second Row
The first panel of the second
row should be long enough so the ends of the second row panels reach past
the end seams of the first row panels. TIP:
If the remaining section of the last panel of the first row is long enough,
use it for the first panel of the second row.
Line up the first panel of the second row so the outside end is even with
the outside end of the first panel of the first row. Lock the long side
of the second row panel onto the panel of the first row. After locking
in place, lay the remaining panels of the row by first locking the long
side in place and then tapping the end of the panel to slide it into firmly
into place at its end.
Middle Rows
Lay each of the panels of
the remaining middle rows in the same manner. In order to stagger the
end seams of each panel, it is recommended that the length of the first
panel of each row be varied.
Last Row
Because the width of the
last row may be less than that of the previous rows, it may be necessary
to cut the panels of the last row to the appropriate width. (See TIP for
first row).
Precautions
- Caution: Wood Dust can be hazardous to your health.
Wood products including fiberboard and engineered
wood products produce wood dust when sawn, sanded, or machined. Airborne
wood dust can cause health problems and can also be an explosive hazard.
Power tools should be equipped with dust collectors, and precaution should
be taken to prevent ignition. In the United States, the National Institute
for Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH) recommends limiting wood dust
exposure to prevent the following health problems: eye and skin irritation;
allergy, reduced lung function, asthma, and nasal cancer. Use an appropriate
NIOSH approved dust mask and safety glasses when sawing, sanding, or machining
wood products. In countries outside the USA, consult the relevant national
occupational health and safety authority for the appropriate standard
in protective equipment.
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