Cork Glueless Plank Floor
Installation Instructions   

                     

Recommendations

- Cork is a natural product . Differences in the structure and shades of planks occur naturally and cannot be accepted as valid grounds for complaints
- The cork planks should be climatized by opening the boxes and leaving in the middle of the room in which they are to be laid for 48 hours
- Upon opening the boxes, check that all planks are in the proper condition for installation
- Do not install cork floors in humid room spaces such as bathrooms, saunas and laundry rooms
- Always leave a gap of approximately 3/8" between the edges of the flooring and perimeter walls to allow for possible expansion and movement
- If the room in which the panels are to be installed had under floor heating, the surface must not exceed a temperature of 82 degrees. Under floor heating can lead to the   formation of cracks during long heating periods

Surface Preparation

- Should the floor surface require leveling, use a quick drying leveling plaster
- Cement or cement-derivative floors should be made impermeable with 0.2mm thick polyethylene film in order to protect the panels from sub-floor moisture
- Cork panels may be laid directly on top of PVC, linoleum, agglomerates or carpets
- After laying on the polyethylene film, we recommend the use of a cork under layer, available in rolls and with a minimum thickness of 2mm in order to improve sound   insulation. When fitting the under layer, take care that the joints do not coincide with the joints of the polyethylene film. Tools and Supplies

Tools and Supplies

- Hammer
- Set Square
- Saw
- Carpenter's gauge
- Wooden Wedges
- Wooden Batten
- Chisel

Installation

- Plan the installation before beginning to lay the panels; measure the room/space in which the panels are to be installed. Normally the last row of panels has to be cut   longitudinally to adjust the panels to remaining space. If the last row turns out to be very narrow, the first row should also be cut to match the dimensions of the panels in   the last row
- Leave a space of approximately 3/8" ( expansion space ) between the panels and perimeter walls or around obstacles ( columns and pillars ) Use wooden wedges
- If a wall is not straight use a ruler. The first three rows should be laid using a ruler
- Begin fitting the panels from left to right, so that the "male" ridges of the first panel faces the wall. Do not forget to place wedges between the wall and the panels
- Now insert the "male" ridge of the next panels into the "female" groove in the first panel at a slight angle and press lightly on the "females" side. Now close the joint   between the transversal edges and grooves using a suitable piece of wood and mallet
- To make the joint for the last panel in the row use a push bar. Do not forget to insert the wedge between the panel and the wall on the left-side
- Begin the ensuing rows with the rest of the last panel of the previous row (length of at least 11.8"). First fit the panel lengthwise and then make the join by hammering   gently with a mallet and wood on the female side. Then make the join on the transerval sides, once again using the mallet
- The last row is attached to the preceding row with the aid of the pull bar. Do not forget to leave an expansion space of approximately 3/8"
- If you use a ruler, remove it after laying 3 or 4 rows and pull the panels together in the direction of the wall
- Remove the wooden wedges and attach quarter round, which should completely cover the space left for the expansion of the panels
- Once the panels have been installed, it is possible to walk on the floor covering immediately. This is one of the advantages of the speedy system